In Praise of the Potato

Book Cover



Whilst researching potato literature I came across a book written by Lindsey Bareham entitled ‘In Praise of the Potato: Recipes from around the world’, (1989). Bareham’s book contains a combination of recipes that centralise around the potato and provides us with information about the potato.

‘Anyone interested in learning more about potatoes should buy Lindsey’ Bareham’s marvellous book … a joy to own, for potato dishes will never go out of date’– Arabella Boxer in Vogue.

‘Splendid and imaginative … I now feel there can be nothing left to say on the subject of potatoes’ – Delia Smith.

Bareham begins by enlightening her reader of the history of the potato: its nutritional content, storage advice and different varieties, before entertaining us with different methods of cooking. By devoting entire chapters to particular methods of cooking potatoes such as ‘Boil and Steam’, ‘Mash’, ‘Bake’ etc, Bareham informs us upon the various ways in which to prepare potatoes within that particular type. I found one roasting method quite scrumptious…

“Paprika Roast Potatoes

This is a variation on the famous Hungarian Paprika Potatoes cooked fondante style. They make a good alternative to baked potatoes with cold meat.

2 large potatoes, boiled and peeled

1 ½ oz (40g) butter

2 oz (50g) plain flour

1 oz (25g) paprika

2oz (50g) onion finely chopped

Hot milk and hot water as required

Salt, pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 350F/180C/gas mark 4, butter a shallow dish and cut the potatoes horizontally into ½ -in (1-cm) thick slices. Make a layer of potatoes, sprinkle on half the sifted flour, season with salt, pepper and half the paprika and then with half the onions. Repeat and finish with potatoes. Season and pour on enough milk and water (in equal amounts) almost to cover. Dot with butter, cover with foil in which you’ve punched a few holes. Bake for 1 hour, remove the foil and bake for a further 30 minutes.” (Bareham, 1995 p. 47)

Following on from methods, Bareham provides the reader with a wide range of potato recipes. Whether it’s ‘Salads’, Sauces and Stuffings or exciting ‘Dinner Dishes’, Bareham does not disappoint.

There is also a list of ‘Drinks’ recipes provided. I smiled at the mention of Irish Poteen, probably the most famous drink made from potatoes, yet it is highly illegal. Bareham says: “the most famous, reputedly lethal and strictly illegal alcoholic brew is the Irish poteen.”   (Bareham, 1995 p. 296) However, she does provide ingredients and recipes for other potato based drinks.

I found the ‘Cornish Barm’ recipe rather interesting and useful for those who fast for religious or other reasons. I’ve included the recipe below, give it a go - if it tastes nice let me know as I’m too wary to try it for myself!

“Cornish Barm

This curious drink should be viewed as sustenance during a fast.

3 oz (75g) mashed potato

4 oz (110g) sifted flour

4 oz (110g) sugar

2 pts (1.1 l) water

1 oz (25 g) raisins” (Bareham, 1995 p. 298)

Bareham, L. In praise of the Potato: Recipes from around the world. London: Penguin Group, 1995.